Sacred craft_tribute to Simon Anderson

Can't wait.

Appropriate Measure

It takes spaces like this to convey the meaning of one's
insignificance in the true scale of things. It's easy to forget or
get caught up in the minutiae of unimportant things that always seem
so critical. The resonance of moments like these equate to a
balancing of temperment and a desire to play a part in the
preservation of this relationship rather than a component of it's
destruction.

The solitude of surfaces

Radiance. Luminescence. Glow. Latent Potential...

Micktory in peniche

Every great nation..

I heard an interesting quote this afternoon that made me really think about the value
and necessity of art..  is it an integral and defining part of out culture?:
"every great nation deserves equally great art". It made me think
about every level of that expression; not only what's classified as
art proper and locked away behind glass, but what is engrained into the very fabric of
what our lives are built on/of. All that is spontaneous and not easily discernable.  the grey and cloudy giving way to patches of brilliant light and clarity.
It's hard to imagine a world where we could never imagine our lives
without the mystery and unknowingness that is art.
Imagine..

SoCal_hecho en Mexico

Windansea_15july10

Home of the pumphouse crew..

mirror plane is up

javier blasted this one out in a day.  stoked to get this out in something decent.  wondering if the fin group is a bit too open for the size.  should have tightened things up when i shortened it.  also wish the v-lap wasn't as pronounced as it is. oh well.  all of a sudden a thruster looks so strange to me.  nice job javier on the coke bottle tint ala shuji. 

mandala webbed swallow

-pause-
now this is interesting..

madrid

.

Smile you're in Los Angeles

drill baby drill

can anyone believe that bp still hasn't stopped the uncontrolled flow of oil into the gulf of mexico? 
convenient how it doesn't even make the headlines anymore even though nothing has changed for the better.  absofuckinglutely criminal.

thanks bp.

008 out to glass

had a day of reckoning the other day in the lineup.  surf was overhead and good, but i came to the realization that after 4 years, it's not going to get much more than this here.  so, unless i'm traveling home to hawaii or portugal, or somewhere where there really is the probability of serious surf, those newly shaped 6'4" and 6'8" roundpins really wouldn't be seeing too much activity.  as i just traded 005 for a 6'4" 5-fin bonzer (which seems promising in overhead hollow surf btw), the vacuum in my quiver became the 6'0" - 6'2" range.  solution:  4" off of the 6'4", used the tail template on the nose to make a double sided mirror plane.  not a lot of rocker left in it, but hopefully the length and extra tail rocker will allow me to compensate for it.  thruster with a single concave to slight v in the tail.  javier will be on it until i leave, so this one will be seeing its first waves in southern portugal.  :D

carles and babs forever

this one's for you yasu!
forca hollanda!

les bleu it

somewhere, there were many happy irish.
n'est pas?

wells cathedral

the depth of this photo surprises me.
almost labyrinthine.  piranesian.
there are so many rich lines of movement and parallax.
despite being set in cold stone and history, the liquidity is undeniable.
distance, controposto, merging, chiaroscuro, prova atmosferici.

008_mirror plane

Topanga_-6july10

pitcairn south swell.

Why the long face?

Bozeman, MT._03july10

Topanga point_27june10

Low tide and lined up.
Fun morning with only the boys+10.
Notably long rides this morning..