the solitude of surfaces: February 2013

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Derek Hynd

I'm uncertain about this character, but what style.

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Sunday, February 10, 2013

I remember taking the saddle road trail on horseback several times up against the mountain and having my horse get fully spooked when boulders began falling off of the cliffs high above. It made such a huge sound crashing against the rocks all the way down. The horse bolted and I almost flew off because I had left him on a slack rein. Barely reeled him in and stopped him before going over the bars.

Kualoa

I remember before they cleared out the jungle at kualoa beach and made it into a park, we used to camp there every year. We would always wait for the low tide and walk out over the reef almost the whole way out. My dad would put me and my sister one on each of his shoulders and keep walking deeper and deeper until almost his whole head was submerged but keeping us afloat. On the island, hiking to the top, then around to the little cove on the backside. Salt soaked memories.

Misty

Set

Baby Makapu'u

Came across some photos by some guy back on Oahu. Some of em really hit home. I remember my mom taking us here to learn how to bodyboard when we were all little squids..

Friday, February 8, 2013

Steel

First steel posts at main entry stair going in.

Alcazaba

2nd floor slab form work. Reminds me of the garrison ruins in the Alcazaba at the Alhambra.

Release

Cup shot

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

The day I cut my foot at c street

The caption read: "Ventura, California is about 10,000 miles from Jeffrey's Bay, South Africa. But occasionally, on a long period NW swell, the two share some remarkable similarities".

The sets that morning weren't huge (head high to 1.5x overhead), but sooooo consistent that I couldn't even make it out the first go around. I jumped in way up the point around the corner in this photo, but quickly got sucked down to the pier beyond the left margin on this photo in under 8 minutes. Cold water to boot equating to nice cream headaches trying to duck dive under these 85 wave sets. After hiking back up the point and finally making it out the back between sets, the bottom dropped out on me on one of the sets. I cartwheeled under water and made contact with someone way inside. Wasn't even near the guy when I fell, but like two coconuts destined to collide, we found each other down in the blackness. After exchanging pleasantries after both coming up, we both paddled away. I was beat and went in. Something just didn't feel right, but I didn't realize what had happened until I looked down and noticed a trail of blood following me up the beach. I traced it to a large dangling flap of skin severed from my left heel. You know that feeling or realization that your body has been rendered helpless. That feeling when you know that the severity of what's just happened will obligate hospital time...

I hate that feeling.
Photo sure looks great though..