Sunday, December 5, 2010
Micro lines
just me and Linny this quiet morning.
high tide and lots of sand on the inside made for small but fast walls all the way to the beach.
it's funny how so much sand can move up and down the beach so quickly. reminds me of the seasonal east to west migration of sand on the stretch fronting pipe, offthewalls, and log cabins.
Topanga_05dec10
High tide and empty dawn.
Always a great feeling at the first crack of light seeing a clean wall peeling off untouched.
Breaking into a run.
Should be double overhead in a few days...
Always a great feeling at the first crack of light seeing a clean wall peeling off untouched.
Breaking into a run.
Should be double overhead in a few days...
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Monday, November 29, 2010
Sunday, November 28, 2010
life's puzzle
Topanga_28nov10
Small, but exceptionally clean morning with only one other early taker.it had been awhile since being out...family, work, sickness, issues of whatever sort, but it still amazes me and gives me great comfort when a single special moment on a wave can lift one's spirit again, give one renewed focus, and maintain that same youthful elation first experienced a long time ago.
everything is momentarily...absolutely perfect...burned into the back of my mind as another found piece of my life's puzzle.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Friday, November 26, 2010
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
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LOVE,
Friday, November 19, 2010
Thursday, November 18, 2010
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