Bend

Reminds me of the bend in the beach between turtle bay and kawela bay, but a different scale.. Special place.

Feuillemort

Sandback meets Turrell

Very nice kicks

Bmx

Topanga_09mar13

Some mixed up short period wind swell this morning. Not so crowded, but wonky. Still good to be out in the water again.

Sail away

Topanga_03mar13

Heel not happy with the cold water..

Thoughts on life

Barriers

"I never wish to be easily defined. I'd rather float over other people's minds as something strictly fluid and non-perceivable; More like a transparent, paradoxically iridescent creature rather than an actual person".

- Franz Kafka

Surfing is carving

This is so inspiring. Wish this were me.
Such a critical section of the face, just vertical and right in the pocket where the most drive comes. An amazing carve.

Books

Would love.

Ando_footwork trickery?

You just have to look..

House of cards_on la brea

Peacock_spotted on la brea_02mar13

Countyline_02mar13

First day back in the water in over a month. Foot felt ok, not great.
Ecstatic to be back in the ocean again though..a beautiful dawn.

Bending light

The sea

Whoopi

What is and what should never be

Poetry

When I say be creative, I don't mean that you should all go and become great painters and great poets. I simply mean let your life be a painting, let your life be a poem.

—Osho

Loaf o bread

Another mandala fatty. 4'6" x almost that wide. Interested in trying one of these on for size.

The warp and the weft