one california day?

this was sunday morning at c-street in ventura.super crisp sunrise and cold ass water.

sometimes i think about how it would have been growing up surfing really good pointbreaks like rincon, or c-street, or topanga instead of 2 second sherwoods shorebreak dumpers.one thing i do understand is that on waves like these (when they're on), you can really get down to concentrating on what you're doing. right or wrong. and actually practice things. in hawaii, i guess i never spent enough time trying to surf the really good spots and people that did excell were the ones able to deal with the spontaneity and the force of the variety of conditions there.

i can't remember the last time i really got worked here in california whereas in hawaii i still have fond memories of bouncing off the reefs and nearly losing my trunks, sticking apendages through boards, and getting stung by manowars while being dragged 100 feet underwater by mysto sets. i remember trains of thought here in california, but i remember moments of punctuated clarity while surfing in hawaii. incomparable to anywhere else i've been.

south should be arriving this friday!

:)