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Friday, February 5, 2010

something wicked this way comes


i always thought that was a really scary title for a film, but was unimpressed by the actual storyline being about a band of vampire gypsies descending upon an unsuspecting middle-american town.

i decided to chance a surf this morning ahead of the predicted 2-day rainstorm headed for shore. conditions were equally unimpressive, but still breaking..barely. after laughing at some jokes about how miserable the conditions were graciously cracked by a couple of locals, i paddled out alone. the twin keel fish was the right choice, but the commencing rain made me wonder if i had made the right decision to go out. after paining through a couple of 1' shifty mushburgers, another longboarder paddled out. 10 minutes later, the guy looks over to me and utters that phrase you wish you didn't hear, "dude, there's something huge out there!"
as my legs began to retract into my throat, i managed to reply "so how big was it, and how far out?" when he responded about 200 yards out, the auto-math in the back of my mind told me that we had about 8 seconds to make it to shore safely.

i've been especially freaked out as of late as we've come across some mauled seals up and down the coast. one had the tell-tale 16" wide semi-circular clean bitemark out of its chest as if it had been hit from a single burst of speed and teeth from below. the other was missing its head. i read the other day that a diver up near gaviota reported coming across a 23 footer. something that large (and hungry) in the water next to you just blows my mind.

despite the tragedy involved, it certainly makes one feel very much a part of the critical world in a strange way.
well, keep your head down and your feet up.

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