erosion

turts!
a great paddle out angle of the lineup at turtle bay as sets are swinging wide around the point.
apart from all of the great sessions we had here, nearly drowning there will always carry a certain respect in my heart.  i've read about other's near death experiences with drowning and it really did seem as they each described.  that everything just seemed to fade away softly and become quiet, and the boundary between air and water became indistinguishable and unimportant.  depth perception eroded as my body seemed to become one with the ocean.  i'll never forget that feeling.