first real south of the summer.
not huge, but perfect.
this is a sequence by the way grinding down the point.
it's good to see so much energy in the ocean again.
Showing posts with label topanga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label topanga. Show all posts
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Friday, June 26, 2009
Sunday, June 7, 2009
topanga
one of the few photos anyone has ever taken of me surfing.
i get a serious deficiency in surf pics and back rubs...
what you can't see are the 12 guys down the line just about to drop in.
or the other 6 guys i just stuffed for that matter.
i get a serious deficiency in surf pics and back rubs...
what you can't see are the 12 guys down the line just about to drop in.
or the other 6 guys i just stuffed for that matter.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
south x southwest
energy in the form of lines of liquid.
driven hundreds, thousands of miles overseas.
their message is the same.
describing a faraway story through corduroy redundancy; through the sounds of rocks and water moving together; through cloud formations, tides, and wind all pulsing together like morse code.
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