it's nice really getting to know a place and its history.
i came across this old photo of topanga point back when it was still a private beach with houses.
some of the older guys always talk about how it used to be back when you had to sneak out and how much localism there use to be. people always getting knocked about, tires getting deflated, you know..
i was able to spend a good amount of the day at the beach at topanga to see the sunrise alone in the lineup, share some waves and laughs with the morning crew, tag team the late morning shift, have lunch at the reel inn across the street, let rafael play in the afternoon low tide looking for crabs and sea anemones, then get the long view of the point at sunset from the chart house. topanga's one of those places that exists between the folds of reality. just outside the bustle of the heart of LA, but not far enough out to be like malibu. the little pocket of a point throws down some classic lines though with the right conditions. 'you just gotta pay attention to the conditions' is what they all say. lots of different shades, views, faces, but indelibly all california. after sharing so many quiet lonely dawns with the spot, i kind of feel like an adopted son of sorts, or at least that i'm coming to understand something indescribable about the place that exists just for me.
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