The only ridable spot (later proven wrong), was sunset.
It's strange that sunset is one of the only places that seems to break when all other places are bunk.
Against my better judgement, i decided to join the 4 longboarders on foam bz boards out there. It had been 3 weeks since being in the water, so i chalk it up to being delusional.
Took Rafael's trusty 4'-11" mini-simmons out and caught one wave.
When all four longboarders split and left me alone in the lineup in the middle of a rain squall, i started thinking about all of those breaching sightings out there and decided that getting eaten by whitey at that crappy place waiting for 1 foot waves just didn't add up so i split too...
No comments:
Post a Comment