one california day?

this was sunday morning at c-street in ventura.super crisp sunrise and cold ass water.

sometimes i think about how it would have been growing up surfing really good pointbreaks like rincon, or c-street, or topanga instead of 2 second sherwoods shorebreak dumpers.one thing i do understand is that on waves like these (when they're on), you can really get down to concentrating on what you're doing. right or wrong. and actually practice things. in hawaii, i guess i never spent enough time trying to surf the really good spots and people that did excell were the ones able to deal with the spontaneity and the force of the variety of conditions there.

i can't remember the last time i really got worked here in california whereas in hawaii i still have fond memories of bouncing off the reefs and nearly losing my trunks, sticking apendages through boards, and getting stung by manowars while being dragged 100 feet underwater by mysto sets. i remember trains of thought here in california, but i remember moments of punctuated clarity while surfing in hawaii. incomparable to anywhere else i've been.

south should be arriving this friday!

:)

south x southwest

energy in the form of lines of liquid.

driven hundreds, thousands of miles overseas.

their message is the same.

describing a faraway story through corduroy redundancy; through the sounds of rocks and water moving together; through cloud formations, tides, and wind all pulsing together like morse code.

residual

there can be so much said in an image without a single word being uttered.
related to this; sometimes you can almost sense the kinetic energy embedded in an image. as if you are held mid-breath waiting for motion to resume in a crush of white noise.

.the thrill of victory.
.the agony of defeat.
.the suspension of time and space.

my first breach

how'd a couple o morsels like you like to come over for a little...get together?...

i was dumbfounded and a bit in shock just after i saw it breach 100 yds out from the lineup. it happened just how i had read about and the image, still fresh in my mind, was just as i'd seen in countless photos. about 8-10' long, launched about 4' out of the water, turned upside down to show it's white belly, then flopped down again and disappeared...

yikes...

needless to say, we were outta there.

the body

always relative to the body.

in presence and absence.

bussotti

Sylvano Bussotti: Sette Fogli "Per Tre Sul Piano Per 3......"

graphic notation indicating the arrangement of sounds.

never sleep

i don't actually.

corduroy lines

it's interesting to see movement in things, or rather the 'evidence, or history' of movement in things. a setting can tell a past story and yet still hold so much kinetic energy.


national blvd.

skywriting

in case of emergency, always look up.

pastrami tacos anyone?

i actually ate dinner here.

Somewhere, CA.

spidey

as an architect, how should one feel about this level of ornament?

redlight.greenlight

when it rains in LA.

downtown is one of the most cinematic places in the city.

strangely empty.

quietly heroic.

lateral illumination.
i loved it when i finally got when people would use the word 'golden' to express ultimate resolution or satisfaction.

"you're golden!'

slo-an-lo.

chu gotit mang!

empty canvas

some moments exude urgency.

and some canvases actually speak to you.

reflections

reflections are sometimes images of where we've been;

and at other times, distorsions of where we imagine ourselves to be someday.

mandala

i was really interested to finally try a quad speed dialer.

the board really felt good. weight, balance, shape. was really interested in the fin setup.

really wanted it to be the solution which kept the speed and wave catching potential of a twin, but would offer the drive, holding, and maneuverability of a thruster.

it was a lot different than i imagined actually. it wasn't the easy solution i was looking for at least. couldn't get it dialed in. felt like my stance was too narrow, eratic speed control, maybe it was too short perhaps (5'8). on one wave i did feel the potential of a quad though. although the surf was chunky and wobbly, i was able to square right off the bottom and project straight up into the lip where i wanted. i could never have done that on my twin. i just went straight up. flew off when i blasted into the lip, but eyeopening regardless.

still looking for that right quad..

testing...

hello.