A fraction of it's former self.
Quite a bit smaller this year on the point at kanguru, but lines still
wrapping in. The bay had some decent peaks to be had. Hadn't broken
a leash in 4 years in California, but the second day in Portugal and
guess what...really made me remember how powerful the ocean can be and
how sheltered it is in most parts of southern California. Breakinga
leash is one of the strangest feelings, especially in big surf. That
feeling of extreme tension then that sudden release...all of a sudden
you feel like an astronaut who's been left behind by the space
shuttle. You start feeling very small and insignificant in the larger
scheme of the world.
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